Pan de Vida

When we first started talking about exploring Peru, a friend connected us with Carlos, who runs a multiple non-profit organizations in Arequipa. After a couple conversations, he invited us to come visit. To understand what he does and why, one needs to hear his story. Born in Peru, Carlos was abandoned at a very young age, then adopted by a Dutch couple. He grew up in the Netherlands, and when he became an adult, returned to Peru with a heart for the children there in difficult situations. He raised money to build a children's home, which opened in 2014 and is currently home to some 20 children under 16, most of which are very young. Some are eligible for and awaiting adoption, others have lived there for many years. Carlos also started a feeding project for children who may not have access to sufficient meals at home. Over the last twenty years, this has grown from one location to forty, now in many locations throughout Peru! Please take the time to watch this video introducing three of his projects. You'll also get a bird's eye view of the area where we stayed, the city of Arequipa and a look at the local market, a bright and busy place.

After Carlos got to know us, he invited us to help out with the children a bit by walking the big kids home from school, or taking the little ones to the park. 

A few times we got to play with the big kids after they completed their homework. Journey showed them the church clap dance and they all tried it.

To celebrate Arequipa Day, we walked with all of the children to the mall for ice cream. Afterwards we returned for a traditional meal together back at the Casa. 

Along our walk I saw swallows dipping over the fields with volcanos in the distance. So charming.

We had the honor of being invited to attend and celebrate the quincenera of one of the girls. In latin culture, the 15th birthday is when a girl becomes a woman, so it's a very important birthday and one that is celebrated with a beautiful dress, food, guests and lots of traditions. I gifted my photography skills for the party and made portraits of her before the party began. Isn't she lovely?

You could just see how incredibly proud Carlos is of her. Having lived at the house for many years, she is now the oldest and has taken on a mothering role with the younger children. I was very impressed with how well she takes care of them and anticipates their needs. She is a very sweet, young woman with a kind heart and a beautiful smile.

Everyone lined up to give her hugs!

I took photos of her with each of her guests. Here she is with the women who work in the house taking care of all of the children. It's not an easy task, but a tremendously important one. 

Before we left, I took portraits of the rest of the children for Carlos. Such precious little ones each with their own big personalities.

After spending three weeks here with Carlos, his family and the children, I can't even begin to express the impact he is having on vulnerable children of Peru. The feeding program is making a huge difference in the lives of the families participating. If they can't be with their birth or adoptive parents, the children's home is the next best scenario for children who are in a very difficult situation. Having been separated from their parents, they find here a loving home, one with rules and responsibilities, they attend school and come home to a house full of brothers and sisters to play with and caretakers who feed them, help with homework and take very good care of them.

We're so thankful for the opportunity to meet Carlos and his family and spend time with the children. They are doing amazing things. If you would like to support them thru prayer or donations, connect thru their website here. 

Volcanos, Vicunas, & Flamingos! {Lagunas Salinas}

A week before leaving Arequipa, I noticed on eBird two species of Flamingos were reported at Laguna Salinas! I had thought they'd left for the winter. I quickly found a birding guide who was able to take me on a Flamingo chase! I knew that three species of Flamingos are seen during the summer here, so I secretly hoped for all three! Juan Chalco picked me up at 5am to begin the 2hr drive up thru the mountains to 14,000ft. It was still dark as we drove past Misti Volcano. 

The drive up was really interesting as once you get out of the city, it's all curvy, switchbacks up the mountains. We saw a few birds along the way, including a lifer Aplomado Falcon!

As the car climbed higher and higher, we saw our first group of vicunas. We would later see gobs of alpacas, llamas and more vicunas. I loved seeing signs warning of alpaca crossing!

We also saw a viscacha, which is a chinchilla-like, rabbity creature, just chilling on some rocks. I knew my kids would have loved to see this and fortunately a few days later I got to show them one at Colca Canyon. Those photos are better, so check those posts.

My first view of the laguna. It was a really cold morning at this high altitude, -5C (23F)!

Before approaching the lake, we made a short stop at a small lagoon. With a volcano erupting in the distance, we watched an Andean Gull and picked up a few more lifers, including the super cute, Andean Negrito! What a pretty bird, all black with a rusty-brown cape.

We finally made it to our destination, and enjoyed a quick breakfast with a view of flamingos in the distance! It made me a little crazy to not run towards them to get a better look, but I kept my cool. Breakfast was interrupted a few times by a curious wren, some Ground-tyrants, a Cinclodes and Snow Geese.

Now it was time to hike out over the tundra and onto the salt flats. The elevation of Lagunas de Salinas is 14,000ft, so it's easy to get exhausted or out of breath. Juan was good about reminding me to take it slow.

Yellow-billed Teal

Here we got some great looks at a Puna Plover and more Andean Negritos chasing insects on the flats.

The vastness of salt flats make it them a good spot for trick photography. It's easy to create forced perspective shots where it looks like a toy dinosaur is huge and people are tiny, which is what this group was doing.

When we got a bit closer, Juan focused his scope on the flamingos. It looked like they were all Chilean Flamingos, but wait, one had a darker bill, is that an Andean Flamingo? It was! Later Juan picked out just one, smaller James Flamingo among the bunch! Yes, the trifecta! 

From left to right: James, Andean, and Chilean Flamingos!

Check out all the alpacas, llamas and vicunas along the edge of the salt flats!

As soon as we left the salt flats and started to made our way back down the mountains, we spotted a young Mountain Caracara perched just off the road!

On the way home, we stopped in the town of Chiguata for a few minutes of birding along the road, and then one more stop just a little further where we came across a shepherd moving her sheep. This turned out to be a great birding spot.

One of the first birds we came across was a Plumbeous Rail! It was just a blur, but Juan played a call and two ran out into the open! We spent quite a bit of time watching this striking Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant. 

Black-throated Flowerpiercer (above)       Black Metaltail (below)

The next day we were leaving for a trip to Colca Canyon, so Juan spent a lot of time during the drive back giving me tips on where to stop along the drive to pick up specific birds. Super helpful!

At the end of the day, we'd found 48 species, and I'd picked up 29 lifers! Great day!