Gulls Galore {Bang Pu}

Something special happens at a place called Bang Pu. During fall migration, gulls from Russia pass through this area as they head south. We happened to be here at the perfect time to witness this. On our drive to the coast we passed this three-headed elephant statue at Erawan Museum. Elephants are Thailand's national symbol and a sign of good luck, and this one represents Hindu mythology.

While we were there for the birds, something else caught our eye upon arrival, mudskippers! These are fish with unique abilities allowing them to breathe air and move about on land. Two species of them were climbing out of the water onto the mudflats. This one with blue spots and a sailfin is called a Boddart's Goggle-eyed Goby.

And this one, with a very distinctive face, is a Giant Mudskipper.

We ended up watching the mudskippers for quite awhile and we're very entertained when we saw these two Gobies in a fierce and bizarre battle, presumably over territory.

Just a little further down the pier we spotted the birds- HUNDREDS of gulls, almost entirely Brown-headed Gulls, but I did spot one Slender-billed Gull in the mix. As I mentioned, the gulls migrate thru here in November and when they do, people gather to see this event. Vendors sell pieces of chicken skin and if you hold it out, the gulls will take it directly from your hand! It's quite a rush to stand at the corner of the boardwalk and have them flying right over you. Journey put a piece on her head and eventually one gull became brave enough to grab it.

After awhile, we decided to eat dinner at the seafood restaurant on the pier. Journey and I placed our order and went back out to watch the birds until the sun set. What a fun place! 

*The pier is just one section of this birding area. There are trails between mangroves, mudflats, lakes and more. So if you come for birding, give yourself a good half day here to see everything. Some call this Bang Poo, so use both names when looking for directions/suggestions.

Biking Bang Kachao {Thailand}

A new adventure has begun for us, two months in Southeast Asia!

First stop: Thailand!

After 35 hours of travel, including three flights, the longest leg being 15 hours, plus a twelve hour time change, we were ready to find a comfortable place to rest and adjust. We found the perfect place at Arttra Villa in Bang Kachao, what's referred to as the "Green Lung of Bangkok", a green jungle island oasis surrounded by the city.

An island within a city seems a strange concept. It's within an oxbow of the Chao Phraya River with a canal cutting it off from the city at the narrowest part. From above, nothing but trees with a few houses and temples sprinkled about.

The whole island is a series of canals with one main street that has two lanes, the rest of the streets have just a single lane for cars to share with a bike lane on each side. Sounds dangerous, but traffic is light and we found drivers to be very courteous. 

We spent five days here walking and biking the island. There are raised cement paths over the canals, but when someone on a bicycle or motorbike passes, you realize just how narrow it is. Hug the edge and hope for a railing!

The birding here was fantastic! We were barely out of the Grab (their version of Uber) when I started seeing lifers along the canal at ARTTRA Villa. The homestay sits right on the river, rooms have a balcony and there's a 4th floor rooftop area to admire the view. From here the contrast is clear between the relaxed, green island and the busy, towering city just across the river. I'll share more about birding in the next two posts.

We either walked or biked to Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park every day, and though I enjoyed birding there, I found the rooftop at ARTTRA to be an equally exciting spot for birding. Expansive views in all directions and power lines for perching.

 One night Journey and I were on the roof admiring the view when I saw something big like a large heron flying overhead, but it wasn't a bird at all, it was a bat! Journey couldn't believe it and questioned me, "bats aren't the size of eagles!" And I said here they are, which is why they call them "flying foxes"! Ever since I first saw them at a zoo, I've been fascinated with giant bats. How exhilarating to see one fly overhead in the night!

The weekend brought the chance to visit the Bang Nam Phueng Floating Market, which is along a canal, but isn't actually floating. We tried a smorgasbord of foods. Little tiny curled crispy crepe-like things filled with coconut cream and either egg or coconut. Pandan pudding with coconut cream on top. This was sweet, salty and pudding consistency, we were expecting a jello base like the "green condo" Art gave us the day before. We bought the best orange juice I've ever had- fresh squeezed. Pandan pancakes were delicious. Journey picked up a cute pair of elephant pants, the obligatory souvenir, which by the way, the locals do in fact wear, and often. They are so light and airy for the heat here. And for $3, I think we may all end up with a pair. I'm thinking they would make super comfy pajamas too!

Also for sale were fish, meats, home goods, clothing , jewelry, souvenirs, plants, and pets. Plus we found a place to feed fish with baby bottles, so funny! 

The kids also found some interesting snacks to try- fried chicken skin, and dried fish popsicles.

During our stay, our host who goes by Art Vacation, had his first single played on the radio! He sang it for us. You can listen to Worthy on YouTube. https://youtu.be/xOIZCf2HOvI?si=Dudwe2_vm_-jTeFr. He and Journey played a little piano and guitar together.